Emerald Spencer

Tags

1790s, Regency, Spencer

Once I started making Regency clothes, I couldn’t stop. I made my white gown in the summer of 2017. Several prints show a white gown and green spencer. I liked the stark color contrast and I think I look good in jewel tones. I also wanted an all around Regency spencer that could work from the 1790s – 1819.

Whenever I make a new item, I go round and round about the tiny details. I’m not one for trying new trims and bits and bobs when I have not made this type of garment before because I’m too worried about messing something up. And I just love ALL the trim / details so I can never make up my mind. I always debate: do I reproduce it exactly from that fashion plate or do I combine a whole bunch of styles?! And round and round I go and then the item isn’t done on time.

I had started this spencer when I made the gown and open robe. I thought I would get three things done in time for the event in 2017, never having made any of these items and not having a pattern for them. I think these three pieces catapulted me into the world of “frankenpatterning” as it is known in this hobby. Okay, to be fair, I had already made one spencer, so I used that pattern as my base and then just altered the front so it could be a double-breasted style. During the time that this spencer sat in the UFO basket, I made two men’s waistcoats that ended up actually teaching me how to improve some of the sewing techniques on my spencer.

In the above photo, I’m wearing my Kitty Calash Checked Linen Bonnet. Never have I loved an accessory so much!! I purchased it for a July event out East this summer and since then, I love wearing it. Although she advertises it as 1770s, it is the closest thing I have to a Regency era bonnet.

 

In the pic below, of course I had to wear my straw bonnet to see how it looked with the spencer. I can’t decide which hat I like better.

 

My main reason for making this spencer was to keep me warm at events — even in the summer! I get so dang cold so easily. I found that, although it is made out of cotton, it kept me warm in the evening and on a cool November day.

 

So many of the fashion plates and originals had a little koofka pleated tail on the back. I had to have that detail! This was probably the most futzy / tedious part of this project. I wasn’t sure of the shape or how best to attach it; therefore, it was a lot of trial and error. For a first go at it, I’m satisfied.

 

While it fits me pretty well overall, when I make this again, I’m going to resize the center back piece. It requires that pleat and I wish I had made the pleat go the other way instead of having that part poke out. 

 

The ribbon is black silk from Wm Booth Draper. I’m really glad I went with this option because I enjoy the simplicity of it. I am debating about covering buttons in black velvet. I think it would be a good addition, but I also like the ability to adjust it as needed so straight pins it is for now!

Yep — those are my matching (not intentionally) Mansfield Boots from American Duchess. This whole outfit makes me feel so elegant!!

Advertisement

A 1790s Checked Waistcoat for Mr. B

After making the brown worsted wool frock coat last fall, Mr. B trusted my sewing skills enough to request I make him a 1790s double-breasted waistcoat. This was the second piece of men’s clothing I have ever made in my life. It made it its debut on the summer sailing adventure. It is the Kannik’s Korner Men’s 1790 – 1815 pattern.  We used view c and just increased the width of the fronts so they could be buttoned either way and so that there were two rows of buttons.

Looking more casual in camp in the above picture.

 

In the picture below, wearing new fancy breeches, new short jacket, new beaver fur hat, and new pumps.

 

 

We studied several pictures of originals and noted how all of them had really thin shoulders, just two inches across. We modified the KK pattern slightly there as well. Mr. B is my button coverer. Our agreement is if he wants an item with buttons, he gets to cover all the buttons. He does a great job too!

 

 

The other modification was where the back / side seams fell. The pattern had that seam nearly under the armpit. But again, originals showed it being more toward the back. So that seam was moved as well.

 

The other new skill I acquired was making welt pockets!! They totally freaked me out at first (like buttonholes on the brown wool frock coat did), but I looked at lots of pictures and most importantly, made a practice one first following the instructions to a T. It worked! I was ecstatic when I realized I had done it. This linen had a really loose weave, which I did not particularly enjoy sewing with and after only wearing the garment several times this summer, it is started to stretch and show wear and tear.

On the whole, I highly recommend Kannik’s Korner patterns if you’ve never used them. This one was super easy to follow. I enjoyed the process very much. Mr. B loves his waistcoat. He is excited to have another entirely hand sewn garment based on originals. These pictures were taken at Grand Portage Historical site, on the gorgeous shores of Lake Superior, at their yearly event in August.