Yesterday I was bored. Spring time means light lesson planning and grading. Therefore, my mind wandered back to my post earlier this winter with all of my dream projects. I thought why not! I chose the jacket, not because it was first on the list, but because there was less fabric involved. Heh. We’ll see how that works out in the end.
I cut out the pattern. Cutting out patterns or fabric is not complete without a cat stepping on the exact piece that you are working on. Watch your paws kitty!! If you look at the pattern, there are three jacket front options and two back options. I am making C-D because it is shorter (less fabric, but not by much) and is more appropriate to the 1780s that my unit portrays. However, I don’t quite have the patience for making handmade eyelets just yet, so I’m fairly certain I want to have the jacket close all the way in the front. Therefore, front A appeals to me. But I like the way the opening on B looks with the stomacher visible.
I know my shoulders at the top front are very small/short/narrow, so I made a mock up on muslin first (a la package directions). Then, I had my husband, begrudgingly, tie me into my stays. haha. Thanks!! Anyone who sews anything historical knows that if you don’t put on your undergarments with the garment for a first fitting, you have no idea whether it will fit or not. Everything fit super well!! I was so impressed. I only need to add two inches to either side of the jacket front so I can properly pin it closed. The back fits; no bunching, no weird puckering – and this was with rather fast hand sewing basting stitches too. Hooray! The part that I’m debating over is the shoulders. When I have all my stuff on, and I stand how I normally stand, the shoulder strap front gets a crease in it, suggesting to me, it’s too big and needs to be readjusted. Maybe next weekend I will climb back into all the garments and try it on again to test to be sure and pin if necessary.
My new quandary is this: I want to make the jacket reversible. I have a faded red for the “outside” color and a yellow/golden brocade like for the “inside.” I’m having a wee bit of trouble wrapping my mind around the concept so that when I stitch the two parts together, I can actually turn the jacket inside out and it works. I’ve seen one picture in Fitting and Proper of a jacket/petticoat combo that was reversible, therefore mine is historically accurate as much as it can possibly be.
The next part I have to test out is the sleeve. I did not exactly have the patience yesterday to sew a sleeve and set it in. That can wait for the following week.